KR100590277B1 - Jacquard cloth, weave structure and method for the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a jacquard fabric, a weaving structure and a weaving method thereof. In weaving a jacquard fabric by densely intersecting a plurality of warp yarns and weft yarns, one base line of warp yarns and weft yarns is provided in the base fabric portion where no pattern is expressed. In the part where the pattern is expressed, the odd number of inclinations among the plurality of consecutively arranged inclines is skipped upward by a predetermined number of wefts for forming a pattern, and then weaved from the next number of wefts to the bottom. Are woven by crossing the structure, and the even-numbered incline is weaved by weaving one by one with one line of weft like the base weave, so that the jacquard pattern is clearly visible on the outside but not on the inside. Weaving structure and weaving method.

The jacquard fabric produced by the present invention has an advantage that the inside surface of the fabric is almost not in a gritty feeling even if the inner surface is in contact with the body while the pattern of the intaglio form as in the prior art is almost invisible, and the touch is improved. Will be provided.

Jacquard, weaving, weft, warp, pattern

Description

Jacquard cloth, weave structure and method for the same}

1 is a view showing an example in which a pattern is expressed on a conventional jacquard fabric,

Figure 2a is an enlarged cross-sectional view showing the weaving structure in the base fabric (floor fabric) is not represented in the jacquard fabric,

Figure 2b to 2d is an enlarged cross-sectional view showing an example of the conventional woven structure of the portion where the pattern is expressed in the jacquard fabric,

Figure 3a and Figure 3b is an enlarged perspective view showing the arrangement of the warp and weft yarn forming a conventional fabric,

4 is a view showing an example of a jacquard fabric to which the weaving structure according to the present invention is applied;

Figure 5a is an enlarged cross-sectional view showing the weaving structure of the base fabric (floor fabric) is not represented in the jacquard fabric to which the present invention is applied,

Figure 5b is an enlarged cross-sectional view showing the weaving structure of the portion where the pattern is expressed in the jacquard fabric to which the present invention is applied,

6A and 6B are enlarged perspective views illustrating an arrangement structure of warp and weft yarns forming a jacquard fabric to which the present invention is applied.

<Explanation of symbols for the main parts of the drawings>

10 fabric 10 base fabric

12: pattern 13: slant

14: weft 2m-1: slope of odd order

2m: slope of even order

The present invention relates to a jacquard fabric, its weaving structure and a weaving method, and more particularly, in weaving a jacquard fabric by densely crossing a plurality of warp yarns and weft yarns, the warp yarns and the weft yarns in the base fabric portion where no pattern is expressed. Weaving by crossing one by one one by one, but in the part where the pattern is expressed, the odd number of inclinations among the consecutively arranged inclinations is skipped by several lines of the wefts which are predetermined to form the pattern, and then Weaving is made by intersecting with the structure weaving downward, and weaving the even numbered slopes by weaving one by one with one line of weft like the base weave, so the jacquard pattern is clearly visible on the outside but not on the inside. It relates to a jacquard fabric and its weaving structure and weaving method.

In general, jacquard is one of several methods of weaving a fabric through a loom, and is a weaving method developed to weave a pattern on an original woven fabric.

It was named after jacquards in the early 19th century when Frenchman Joseph Marie Jacquard invented a loom that could embroider fabrics. In the process of weaving the fabric by crossing each other, various patterns are expressed by the arrangement structure of the warp and the weft.

In jacquard fabrics, it is important to know how the warp and weft are woven into the structure in order to express the jacquard pattern only in a specific part of the whole woven fabric.How many lines of warp are skipped and how many wefts intersect in the jacquard pattern area? Depending on the pattern will be expressed differently.

By weaving a certain pattern on the surface of the fabric at the same time as weaving, the jacquard fabric can significantly reduce the production cost compared to the embroidery process for expressing a specific pattern after weaving, and it has an excellent expression and texture compared to the pattern expression through dyeing such as printing. It has the advantage of being able to achieve high quality.

1 is a view showing an example in which a pattern is expressed on a conventional jacquard fabric, Figure 2a is a weaving structure in the base fabric (floor fabric) is not represented in the jacquard fabric, Figures 2b to 2d is a jacquard fabric Is an enlarged cross-sectional view showing an example of a conventional weaving structure of a portion where a pattern is expressed.

As shown in FIG. 1, the jacquard pattern 12 is mainly composed of geometric shapes, floral patterns, curves, abstract patterns, etc., and can be repeatedly formed with specific patterns throughout the entire width of the fabric 10 at the same time as weaving. Recently, weaving techniques have been developed that allow the production of one or more irregular patterns within the entire fabric width range according to the needs of the consumer.

As shown in FIG. 2A, in the base fabric 11 where the pattern is not expressed, a plurality of warp yarns 13 and weft yarns 14 have one-to-one weaving structures alternately up and down alternately one by one, and FIGS. 2B to 2B. As shown in FIG. 2D, the inclined 13 has a weaving structure in which the warp yarn 13 is woven into the weft yarn of the next order while skipping a few lines of the weft yarn 14, depending on the shape of the pattern.

Here, in FIG. 2B, one warp yarn 13 has two lines of weft yarn 14, FIG. 2C shows one warp yarn 13 in four yarn lines 14, and FIG. 2D shows one warp yarn 13 in weft yarns 5. (14) Here is an example of a structure that is bound to the next weft after skipping a line.

More specifically, in FIG. 2B, the inclined 13 is a structure in which one warp yarn 13 intersects with respect to two rows of weft yarns 14 and then is wound around the bottom of the third weft yarn. It is a structure in which two different weft yarns are inserted between two weft yarns (14 first and third weft yarns) 14 interlaced.

In the case of Fig. 2c is a structure in which one warp yarn 13 crosses its upper side with respect to four rows of weft yarns 14 and then wraps around the bottom of the fifth weft yarn. This is a structure with another four lines of weft between two wefts (the first and fifth wefts in the figure) (14).

In the case of FIG. 2D, one warp yarn 13 crosses the upper side with respect to the five lines of the weft thread 14 and crosses the lower side with respect to the next line of the five weft threads.

Of course, only one inclination is shown in the drawing, but in practice, a plurality of inclinations are arranged in succession, so that these inclinations 13 skip several lines of the weft yarn 14 in the same manner according to the shape of the pattern. It is a structure that is intertwined with the weft yarns, and these warp yarns 13 skipping a plurality of weft yarns 14 form the surface of the pattern 12 when viewed from the outside of the fabric.

3a and 3b is an enlarged perspective view showing the arrangement structure of the warp and weft yarn forming a conventional fabric, Figure 3a shows a weaving structure in the base fabric 11 is not represented as shown in Figure 2a, Figure 3B shows the weaving structure at the portion where the jacquard pattern 12 of the fabric 10 is represented as an example of FIG. 2C.

Referring to FIG. 3A, it can be seen that in the base weave 11, a plurality of warp yarns 13 and weft yarns 14 have a weaving structure that intersects one-to-one while alternately hanging up and down one by one.

In addition, referring to Figure 3b, a plurality of consecutively arranged inclined 13 crosses the upper side of the weft 14 of a plurality of rows after the winding of the weft to the lower side of the next turn weave the structure, as described above As the (13) is arranged over a plurality of weft yarns 14, the inclined 13 forms the outer surface of the pattern 12 when viewed from the outside of the fabric (10).

As a result, the warp yarns 13 intersecting the weft yarns 14 upward are arranged to be arranged on the plurality of rows of weft yarns, and the warp yarns 13 are outward when the warp yarns 13 are contrasted with the surface of the base fabric 11 at the outside of the fabric 10. The pattern 12 surface (which becomes the embossed pattern surface formed by the slopes) is formed, and on the inner side of the fabric 10, the weft yarn below the slope 13 at the portion of the pattern 12 as shown in FIG. 1. Only (14) is visible and forms a patterned surface (which becomes an intaglio patterned surface) in a shape that enters in contrast with the surface of the base fabric 11.

As described above, in the fabric 10 having the jacquard pattern 12, an intaglio pattern shape is intended to be expressed at the same position of the inner surface as well as the outer surface of the fabric to express the pattern.

However, the pattern expressed on the outer surface of the fabric is utilized as a design, but the pattern on the inner surface of the fabric becomes an unnecessary pattern.

For example, in garments made using jacquard fabrics, the pattern on the outer surface of the fabric is used as a design while the outer surface of the fabric is exposed to the outer surface of the garment, and the inner surface of the fabric becomes the inner surface of the garment, so that unintended patterns that appear unintentionally here do not appear. In particular, the unnecessary pattern of the inner surface can give a somewhat gritty feeling when in contact with the body.

In particular, people living in hot climates, such as the Middle East, may feel uncomfortable if they get a gritty feeling from the cloth when they are in contact with the body.

Therefore, there is a need for a method of preventing the intaglio pattern from appearing on the inner surface of the fabric so that unnecessary patterns on the inner surface do not touch the body while making a gritty feeling.

Therefore, the present invention has been invented to solve the above problems, in weaving a jacquard fabric by densely intersecting a plurality of warp yarns and wefts, the warp and weft yarns one line at a portion of the base weave not patterned. Weaving by crossing one to one, but in the part where the pattern is expressed, the odd number of inclinations among the plurality of consecutively arranged inclines is skipped upward by a predetermined line of wefts to form a pattern, and then weaved from the next weft to the bottom This is a jacquard fabric that crosses and weaves in an even order, and the even-numbered incline is weaved one by one with one line of weft like a base weave. It relates to the weaving structure and weaving method.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

The present invention has a weaving structure in which a plurality of warp yarns 13 and weft yarns 14 cross each other in a one-to-one line in the base weave 11, where the pattern is not expressed, and continuous in the portion where the pattern 12 is expressed. In the jacquard fabric 10 having a weaving structure in which the arranged warp yarns 13 cross over a predetermined number of weft yarns 14 to form a pattern, and then weave them from the next weft yarn to the bottom.

The odd number of inclinations 2m-1 among the plurality of inclinations 13 continuously arranged at the region where the pattern 12 is expressed after the predetermined number of weft yarns 14 are skipped upward to form a pattern. While weaving in a cross structure weaving from the next weft to the lower side, the same number of inclinations (2m) are weaved in a one-to-one structure with one line of weft 14, like the base weave 11, the odd number While the inclinations (2m-1) of the turn represent the pattern 12 on the outer surface and the inner surface of the inclination (2m) and the weft yarns (14) are formed in a cross-section structure, the pattern shape is It is characterized in that it does not appear.

In addition, the present invention has a weaving structure in which a plurality of warp yarns 13 and weft yarns 14 cross one by one in a line in the base weave 11 where the pattern is not expressed, and the pattern 12 is represented. In the weaving structure of the jacquard fabric 10 having a weaving structure in which the consecutively arranged warp yarn 13 skips the predetermined number of weft yarns 14 to the upper side to form a pattern, and then weaves from the next weft yarn to the bottom. In

The odd number of inclinations 2m-1 among the plurality of inclinations 13 continuously arranged at the region where the pattern 12 is expressed after the predetermined number of lines of weft 14 are skipped upward to form a pattern. Whereas the weft of the next turn is a cross structure weave into the lower side, while the even number of inclination (2m) is the same as the base weave (11) is characterized in that the one-to-one cross with the weft (14) one line. do.

In the present invention, in the base fabric 11 where the pattern is not expressed, the plurality of warp yarns 13 and the weft yarns 14 are lined and weaved one by one, and the pattern 12 is expressed on the site. In the weaving method of the jacquard fabric 10, in which the consecutively arranged warp yarns 13 cross the predetermined number of weft yarns 14 upward to form a pattern, and then weave them in the next order from the weft yarn to the bottom.

The odd number of inclinations 2m-1 among the plurality of inclinations 13 continuously arranged at the region where the pattern 12 is expressed after the predetermined number of lines of weft 14 are skipped upward to form a pattern. While weaving in a cross structure weaving from the next weft to the bottom, while weaving in an even order (2m), weaving in a one-to-one intersecting structure with one line of weft 14 like the base weave 11 do.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

Figure 4 is a view showing an example of the jacquard fabric to which the weaving structure according to the present invention is applied, Figure 5a is a woven structure of the base fabric (floor weave) is not represented in the jacquard fabric to which the present invention is applied, Figure 5b An enlarged cross-sectional view showing the weaving structure of a portion where a pattern is expressed in a jacquard fabric to which the present invention is applied.

6A and 6B are enlarged perspective views illustrating an arrangement structure of warp and weft yarns forming a jacquard fabric to which the present invention is applied, and FIG. 6A is a weaving structure in a base fabric 11 in which a pattern is not expressed as in FIG. 5A. 6b shows the weaving structure at the portion where the jacquard pattern 12 of the fabric 10 is expressed as shown in FIG. 5b.

The present invention improves the weaving structure and the weaving method of the part where the jacquard pattern is formed so that the jacquard pattern is not seen when viewed from the inside of the jacquard fabric 10, the inclination 13 and the outer surface of the fabric 10 The pattern shape, which is predesigned by the arrangement structure of the weft yarn 14, that is, the shape of the jacquard pattern 12 is clearly shown, but is disclosed to prevent unnecessary pattern shapes from appearing on the inner surface of the fabric 10.

First, as shown in FIGS. 5A and 6A, in the base fabric 11 where no pattern is represented, the tissue yarns of the fabric 10, that is, a plurality of consecutively arranged warp yarns 13 and weft yarns 14 cross each other. The fabric 10 is formed, but as in the prior art, the warp 13 and the weft 14 have a weaving structure that intersects one-to-one while alternately hanging up and down one by one.

And in the site | part in which the pattern 12 was represented, as shown in FIG. 5B and 6B, odd number of inclinations, such as 1, 3, 5, ... among the several inclinations 12 arranged continuously. (2m-1) is weaved into a cross structure weaving into the next weft yarn after skipping a few lines of the predetermined weft yarn (14) as in the prior art to form a pattern, 2, 4, 6, ... and Likewise, the even-numbered inclination (2m) is weaved in a structure that intersects the weft yarn (14) one by one while alternately up and down for each line of the weft yarn (14).

Here, the odd number of inclinations (2m-1) is the same as described with reference to the drawings of Figs. 2b to 2d to form a unique specific pattern 12, the inclination 13 is two lines of weft 14, or four weft four After weaving various numbers of wefts according to the pattern shape, such as a string or five lines of wefts, the structure may be weaved into the next weft.

5b and 6b show an example of the structure in which the odd number of inclination (2m-1) is intertwined to the upper side with respect to the four lines of the weft yarn 14 and then wound to the bottom of the fifth weft yarn. A structure with another four strings of weft yarns between the two wefts (first and fifth wefts on the drawing) 14 intertwined as the slope (2m-1) crosses downward (the odd number of inclinations is the same as the arrangement of FIG. 2d) ).

Referring to the drawings, among the plurality of inclinations 13 continuously arranged, the even order inclinations 2m have a structure that intersects one by one with one line of the weft yarns 14, but the odd order inclinations 2m-1 ) Are interwoven with several rows of weft yarns (14) and then wound around the weft yarns of the next turn, so that the odd number of inclinations (2m-1) are above the multiple weft yarns (14). As the structure is arranged, the odd number of inclinations 2m-1 as viewed from the outer surface of the fabric 10 form the surface of the pattern 12.

As described above, in the present invention, the odd number of warp yarns 2m-1 crossing the weft yarns 14 are arranged above the plurality of rows of weft yarns 14 while the odd number of warp yarns are formed on the outer surface of the fabric 10. In contrast to the surface of the base fabric 11, an outwardly-patterned 12 surface is formed (which becomes an embossed pattern surface formed by inclined surfaces).

In particular, in the present invention, by entering the one-to-one inclination (2m) with a line of weft 14 in the middle of the inclination (2m-1) forming the pattern 12 on the outer surface of the fabric 10, In the pattern 12 part of the inner surface of the fabric 10, an arrangement structure in which an inclination (an even number of inclinations) (2m) and weft yarns 14 intersect is formed to form a surface and is exposed to the outside, as in the base fabric 11, As a result, as shown in FIG. 4, the pattern is not visible from the inner surface of the fabric 10.

Conventionally, a plurality of warp yarns arranged in successive patterns on the outer surface of the fabric express the embossed pattern while giving a feeling of floating on several rows of weft yarns. As the inclinations are arranged to the outside (upper wefts), only the wefts form a surface on the inner side, and the engraved pattern is clearly expressed in the same shape.

However, in the fabric 10 formed by densely intersecting the warp yarn 13 and the weft yarn 14, in the present invention, a plurality of lines of weft yarn 14 defined in the pattern portion for forming the surface of the particular jacquard pattern 12 After weaving them, the warp yarns (2m-1) intertwined with the next weft yarns, the weft yarns (14) line by line and one-to-one cross warp yarns (2m) are alternately arranged and weaved, so that the fabric 10 In the pattern part of the outer surface, a plurality of slants (2m-1) arranged in series express the embossed pattern 12 while giving a feeling of floating on a plurality of weft threads 14, but the inner surface of the fabric 10 In the pattern part of, the slopes (2m) and the weft yarns (14) in the middle of one-to-one intersections are seen together, and the slopes (2m) and the weft yarns (14) intersect as closely as the base weave (11) to form a surface. The intaglio pattern is almost invisible.

Thus, in the present invention, in weaving a jacquard fabric by densely intersecting a plurality of warp yarns and weft yarns, weaving by weaving the warp yarns and the weft yarns one by one in the base fabric portion where no pattern is expressed, In the part where is expressed, the odd number of inclinations among the consecutively arranged slants skips a predetermined number of weft lines to the upper side to form a pattern, and then weaves and intersects with the structure weaved from the next number of wefts to the bottom. Like the ground weave, the warp yarns are weaved by weaving one by one with one row of weft yarns, so that the jacquard pattern can be woven on the outside but not on the inside.

As a result, the pattern of the intaglio form does not appear on the inner side of the fabric so that the inner side of the fabric does not have a gritty feeling even when it comes into contact with the body, especially in a hot climate such as the Middle East. It can be improved.

As described above, according to the jacquard fabric and the weaving structure and the weaving method according to the present invention, when weaving the jacquard fabric by densely intersecting a plurality of warp yarns and weft yarns, the warp yarn and Weaving by weaving one by one, weaving one by one, but in the part where the pattern is expressed, the odd number of inclinations among multiple slants arranged in succession is skipped by several lines of wefts that are predetermined to form a pattern, and then Weaving is made by weaving from the weft to the bottom, and weaving the even-numbered incline by weaving one by one with one line of weft as in the base weaving. You can weave jacquards that do not appear.

The manufactured jacquard fabric has an advantage that the intaglio pattern does not appear on the inner side, and the inner side of the fabric does not have a gritty feeling even when the inner side comes into contact with the body. .

Claims (3)

In the nonwoven fabric 11, the base fabric 11 has a weaving structure in which a plurality of warp yarns 13 and weft yarns cross one line by one line. 13) in the jacquard fabric 10 having a weaving structure in which weaving a predetermined number of weft yarns 14 to the upper side for weaving and then weaving downward from the next weft yarn, The odd number of inclinations 2m-1 among the plurality of inclinations 13 continuously arranged at the region where the pattern 12 is expressed after the predetermined number of weft yarns 14 are skipped upward to form a pattern. While weaving in a cross structure weaving from the next weft to the lower side, the same number of inclinations (2m) are weaved in a one-to-one structure with one line of weft 14, like the base weave 11, the odd number While the inclinations (2m-1) of the turn represent the pattern 12 on the outer surface and the inner surface of the inclination (2m) and the weft yarns (14) are formed in a cross-section structure, the pattern shape is Jacquard fabric characterized in that it does not appear. In the nonwoven fabric 11, the base fabric 11 has a weaving structure in which a plurality of warp yarns 13 and weft yarns cross one line by one line. 13) in the weaving structure of the jacquard fabric 10 having a weaving structure in which weaving a predetermined number of weft yarns 14 to the upper side and then weaved downward from the next weft yarn to form a pattern, The odd number of inclinations 2m-1 among the plurality of inclinations 13 continuously arranged at the region where the pattern 12 is expressed after the predetermined number of lines of weft 14 are skipped upward to form a pattern. Whereas the weft of the next turn is a cross structure weave into the lower side, while the even number of inclination (2m) is the same as the base weave (11) is characterized in that the one-to-one cross with the weft (14) one line. Weaving structure of jacquard weave. In the nonwoven fabric 11, a plurality of warp yarns 13 and weft yarns 14 are lined and weaved one by one, and in a portion where the pattern 12 is expressed, the warp yarns 13 are continuously arranged. In the weaving method of the jacquard fabric 10 for weaving to skip the predetermined number of lines of weft 14 to the upper side for weaving, and then weaved to weave into the bottom in the next turn weft, The odd number of inclinations 2m-1 among the plurality of inclinations 13 continuously arranged at the region where the pattern 12 is expressed after the predetermined number of lines of weft 14 are skipped upward to form a pattern. While weaving in a cross structure weaving from the next weft to the bottom, while weaving in an even order (2m), weaving in a one-to-one intersecting structure with one line of weft 14 like the base weave 11 Jacquard weaving method.

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